Belait District
When oil was
first discovered at Seria in 1929, this part of Brunei was only mangroves, peat bogs and
forest. The valley of the Belait river was the only spot inhabited by the Punans, the
Dusuns and the Ibans who lived in longhouses in large communities of up to one hundred
people.
Kuala Belait, which merges with the oil town of Seria, is 70km from
Tutong, 120km from Bandar. A few kilometers beyond the town is the border with Sarawak. It
is completely self-contained administratively, commercially and in what it offers in
sports and leisure facilities.
Due to the presence of Brunei Shell, the town, apart from its typically
S.E. Asian centre, is more western in flavour and feel than elsewhere in Brunei. There are
large areas of company housing, bungalow-style, and significant numbers of British and
Dutch oil workers and their families. There are also some members of the British army.
The Chinese presence is also strong and there are many indigenous
people from up the Belait River and from Sarawak. The oil and gas plants are visually
quite unobtrusive but the effects of having offshore rigs are generally detrimental to the
beaches.
Sports and leisure facilities are impressively wide-ranging. Many of
these are to be found at the Shell Panaga club. Out of town, the Belait district has some
of the finest forest in Brunei, Temburong excepted, and villages and longhouses on the
Belait River are well worth a visit.
The Labi Road
The road from Sungai Liang to Labi and beyond (c 90km from BSB) goes furthest into
the interior of Brunei, crossing two ranges of hills. It is bordered by magnificent
jungle, with many old logging trails and other tracks off to right and left, particularly
along rivers and streams. 200m from the turn-off at Sungai Liang there is the:
Arboretum
On the right, a good place to familiarise yourself with local trees and plants, though not
necessarily with their names since many are numbered only.
Rampayoh Falls
At Labi, the surfaced road stops. 200m along the continuing track, see sign on the
left for Wasai Rampayoh (Rampayoh Falls), 120 minutes. A beautiful, well-maintained walk
by a river, mostly in mature primary jungle. After 50 minutes there is a neat camp used by
the British Army with a large natural bathing area and many places to laze around or do an
assault course if the army is not in occupation. Continue along the main river for another
70 minutes to the falls, where there is a fine natural amphitheatre and a deep pool for
swimming and diving. A good place to camp if you have the equipment and the nerve.
Other Waterfalls
Continue to the end of the track on from Labi. Park by the new longhouse and then
follow stream to the left. A 30 - 40 minute walk, always following the stream, brings you
to another attractive, though more frequented, waterfall with a basic picnic area. The
path goes on, apparently to more falls higher up.
The Labi Valley is a real get-away-from-it-all place with strong
reminders of traditional village life, both Malay and Chinese. There are several roadside
shops for food and drink, including a
Kedai Makan at the first fork (coming from
Sungai Liang) in the valley. There are also a number of Iban longhouses dotted about
though lovers of the picturesque will find them too modern.
Rivers
Boat trips up the Belait River are popular at weekends. First port of call is often
the Skull House at Kampong Belai. The further you go, the more adventurous you must be.
For trips to kampongs, most would drive up the Labi road and rejoin the river at Kampong
Sawat, saving a four-hour river trip from KB itself (but missing the Skull House and the
sago factory!). There is an interesting Iban longhouse at Kampong Apak-Apak, three hours
up river from Kampong Sawat.
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